If there is one particular spot (perhaps among many) that tends to get a little messy in my house – it’s my nightstand. Various things just tend to build up there – watches, earrings, rings, cell phones, loose change, random charging cords, last night’s midnight snack remnants (oops). It can all quickly add up to unnecessary mess, and, since one of the recommendations for improving your sleep is to maintain a comfortable, peaceful environment in your bedroom, I know I needed to fix this! That’s why I started to think of a way to organise the area right next to my bed into an efficient storage spot for the random items that tend to pile up there. And thus, my homemade wooden valet charging station was born!
There are so many examples out there – many with very similar designs – so much so that I’m not entirely sure who originally came up with this type of design, and can’t, in turn, give them credit for it.
In the end, I chose a design and modified it to fit exactly the things that most often are scattered across my nightstand: Watches, spare change, earings, glasses and my phone/charger.
Unfortunately, I was a bit lax with photos of the build this time around, but I think you’ll get the jist! This build doesn’t require many tools and is endlessly modifyable to fit what you want!
Tools You’ll Need
Jigsaw or Coping saw
Router (if you want a tray)
Mitre, Table, or Hand Saw
After nailing down my design and acquiring everything I would need to begin, I cut my 19mm pine boards down to size on my mitre station. (I already had 19mm pine on hand, but I actually wanted thinner boards so I ended up running them through my thicknesser after to end with abour a 12mm board for the front face and a 15mm for the back.)
This was my first time building them, and because I was just testing out a few pine stations for myself and my partner, I measured and drew the template directly onto the boards. If I were to make future versions, I would definitely create a printable template that I could fix to the boards in order to make production much faster.
I made the watch storage slot by drilling a hole 3 inches in from the edge and 2 inches down from the top. I then popped out my trusty jig saw and cut straight lines in from the side of the board to remove the material up to the hole, creating a nice clean slot with a rounded end.
I’m not sure why, after the success of the watch slot, I decided to make this part significantly more difficult by trying to use my dado jig to cut this slot to size. My idea was that I wanted to cut an exact size slot to fit the width of the back tenon, and I thought it would be much more accurate and quick to do it this way. However, because my dado jig is made for boards much longer, and this slot was only going to be teensy weensy compared to regular cabinetry, it took a lot of time to rig a set up that allowed me to clamp the piece and jig in place. In hind sight, if I was intent on using the router rather than a jig saw to cut these slots, I should have just clamped some straight edges and had at it. Lesson learned!
The position of this slot in relation to the bottom of the face board is important because it determines what amount of tilt the front face will sit at when the two pieces are connected. I simply eyeballed the tilt to come up with what I thought was a god compromise between ensuring things sitting on the shelf don’t fall forward, and not having a giant tilt on the back piece.
The premise of this valet station is that the shelf the phone sits on is something of a through tenon, which allows for the back of the shelf to prop up the station on an angle. Since I had cut the front slot first, I was able to measure the exact length of the slot to ensure that I got a good fit.
I marked out two equal portions on either side of the shelf and quickly cut out the small, rectangular chunks with my jigsaw to allow the tenon to slide through the slot in the front face and protrude a couple of inches in order to create the shelf. I then test fitted to see how it would sit, and was pretty happy with the result!
With the above lesson learned, I moved back to ye’ old drill and jigsaw method to cut the wallet/notebook slot into the back of the vallet station. It was so much more time efficient and really didn’t look that much less accurate than the router had – or at least, certainly not enough to make up for the cost in time to set up the router and dado jig on such a small board.
Back to the router for this section, and it made me realize just how much I need to build a square template for routering inlays. Unfortunately, it wasn’t in the cards for this project, so I simply hot glued straight pieces of wood to my table to use as a template guide in order to route out a shallow tray for coins and loose knick knacks.
The notch for glasses or necklace storage was cut with a 22mm mortising bit on the router. I simply clamped the piece down and slowly moved the bit into the wood about halfway.
At the front of the phone shelf I wanted a small groove, both as an extra stop for anything sliding off the shelf, and also to hold a pen or pencil. I used the router with a straight edge to make a shallow groove, but a few shallow passes over the table saw followed by some sanding would probably work just as well.
Moving back to the front piece, I drilled two holes the size of my particular dowels in the front face of my valet station, making sure to use a stop collar on the bit to ensure the same depth of drilling and then cut my dowels to size and leaving them unattached at the moment in order to make sanding easier later.
For the groove and hole for the cable, I put the station together by inserting the back piece into the slot on the face piece, and quickly marked a location a few cm out from where the shelf connected with the face, and a spot directly blow this on the bottom of the front face.
I then separated the pieces and used a 19mm forstner bit to drill a hole into the shelf piece at the mark I had previously placed. This hole would serve to allow the head of the charging cable to access the phone. At the bottom of the face piece I used the router to quickly cut a small groove to allow the cable itself to pass behind the station.
For the second valet charging station, I upped my forstner bit size to 22mm to allow myself a bit more wiggle room, and was more happy with this result.
Sanding and Finishing
After all the cutting was done if was time to clean everything up with some sanding. I went over each board with 120 grit sandpaper at first, rounding out sharp corners and any rough edges from the jig saw.
Moving up through the grits, I stopped at 180 and used wood glue and my mallet to fasten the dowels into the predrilled holes on the front faces, and then followed up with my last sanding at 220 grit.
To finish the valet stations, I simply sprayed on a few coats of polyurethane spray – sanding between coats. And with that, I was finished!
What would I change?
All in all, they turned out better than I had expected.
However, if I were to make them again there are a few things that I would change.
I’ve found that the depth of the tray isn’t quite deep enough for me, it works great for coins, etc, but the angle of the board is a bit high to allow for any large knick-knacks not to roll out.
I mentioned that I made the hole for the charging end of the cord larger on the second valet charging station, but I would also make the groove for the cord itself a bit larger in order to allow for a little more wiggle room and easier pull through. And, again, as previously mentioned, I would definitely just cut all the through slots using a drill and jigsaw, as it was significantly faster in terms of setup.
Other than that, they serve their purpose and have definitely helped maintain some semblance of organisation in my otherwise messy life!
Do you have a wooden valet charging station? If so, what items do you store on it, and would you change any of its features? Let me know in the comments!
Oh, crosscut sled! Is there anything more researched, planned and built amongst wood workers than you? I would be interested to know what it would be, if so! After so long, I have finally built my dream table saw crosscut sled with dust collection.
I’ve wanted one of these mean machines since I picked up my table saw at the beginning of last year – actually I’ve wanted one since well before I even had a table saw, but I understood that the table saw must come first.
Since I had spent so much time looking up the sleds before I even had the table saw, I had a pretty good idea of what it was I wanted my sleek, accurate, super crosscutting machine to look like.
I wanted it large enough to support panels for cabinetry. I wanted it to have tracks for hold down clamps – both on the base and on the fence for a stop block, and I wanted it to have some type of incorporated dust collection.
There are so many designs out there, and in the end, I went with simple and effective for my first build. (or, so I thought at the time, it did turn out to be a little more complicated than I had originally planned, as is often the case with my builds!)
The first step was cutting the base to size. I went with 12mm plywood for the base, as it’s what I had on hand, but I knew that this wouldn’t be thick enough for the tracks that I planned to embed in the base. So, I grabbed a piece of 6mm MDF that I also had on hand and laminated it on top of the ply. I preferred this design in the end anyways, as I was able to ensure a flat base (12mm plywood from Bunnings isn’t known for its ability to stay flat after all!) after gluing the two together on top of my table saw (the flattest surface I had).
I used a sanding block to chamfer the back of the MDF where the front fence would attach. This helps to ensure that dust doesn’t build up by the fence and start to affect the accuracy of your cuts.
I cut both the back “fence” and front fence from the same sheet of 12mm ply and laminated three pieces together to end up with two fences at 36mm thickness.
The back fence, since it’s used only to keep the sled together, didn’t need to be perfectly straight, so I didn’t fuss so much with the glue up.
The front fence, however, needs to be a perfectly flat reference surface for the wood to be cut against – so I clamped it to my level during glue up to ensure it stayed flat.
Once the base was dry, I was able to set about cutting the slots for the tracks to sit in.
I used my router with a 20mm mortising bit, and clamped a straight edge to guide the router.
Since I don’t have a plunge router, instead of using the tild method, I simple used a forstner bit to to remove 5mm of material in the plywood base so that I could start up the router without it being in any material. I employed my trusty buddy Kenny to do two passes, taking 5mm at a time, to end up with a 10mm deep slot which fit my track perfectly.
The same process was used for the second slot. The tracks are attached with screws through the predrilled, countersunk holes in the aluminium. I love these little tracks from Orange Aluminum they are significantly cheaper than the ones we all see in every YouTube video sponsored by Rockler, and I think they work as well as any hobby wood worker would ever need. I usually just buy a long piece to keep and cut it to whatever size I may need for a particular project.
For the runners, I chose two pieces of oak hardwood that I ripped to about one mm less than the width of the mitre slots on my table saw. I cut them thinner than the slots so that I didn’t have to worry about getting them to fit perfectly without any play – I would instead address the positioning during attachment.
To attach them, I placed the small plastic spacers that came with my feather boards into the mitre slots on my table saw to lift the runners a bit out of the slot. I then placed shims into the mitre slot where I had a gap in order to press both runners tightly against the blade side of the slots. This meant that the runners were only referencing off of one side of the mitre slot – eliminating any play without the need to cut them perfectly to size.
I placed double sided tape onto the rails and used the fence to position the sled, angling it down onto the rails and pressing firmly to ensure good tape adhesion. I could then flip the sled over, drill and countersink screws through the runners and into the sled.
Attaching the back fence
The next step was attaching the back fence. I did a woopsy earlier when I had cut some really nice curved designs in the fence, and then realized that – since I was offsetting the sled – I had cut too much off the fence, and the blade would rise directly beneath the lower curved section.
Oops. Clumsy Raff.
Luckily, I still had the piece I had cut off, so I simply glued it back on and it’s really not that noticeable in the end.
Before attaching the fence, I also cut two slots into the face of it that would line up with the T-tracks in the base of the sled. This would allow me to drop in and later remove the bolts for the hold downs.
I attached the fence to the base of the sled with predrilled and countersunk screws through the base, and then moved on to the front fence.
Squaring the front fence
The front fence needs to be perfectly square to the blade. So, I popped the sled into the rails and cut through the front half of the sled, stopping before going all the way to the front fence.
I then predrilled and countersunk one screw into the right end of the fence, and used a carpenters square to roughly square the fence to the blade, before putting another single screw in the left side of the fence.
Here comes the math!
If you have never seen William Ng’s video on his “five cut” method to calculate how square your fence is – you really must watch it. It’s lengthy, but I think it really changed a lot of woodworking for me. He explains in detail how to use math to calculate exactly how off your fence is, and the method is incredibly accurate – like…. Down to .005 mm accurate. AND GUYS I CANNOT DESCRIBE HOW MUCH I HATE MATH, BUT THIS GUY MADE ME THINK IT WAS SO COOL. (There are a couple of high school teachers who shall not be named who could learn a thing or two from him.)
It’s not something I could in any way explain well enough ( So, you should definitely watch the above video) – but essentially, because you measure for your error after you have taken a series of cuts off a panel, whatever error you may have is compounded – which means tiny errors that you wouldn’t normally be apparent become pretty in your face.
With his method I was able to get my fence down to .016mm of error over 1 metre. I think that’s pretty darn good – and definitely more accurate than anything else in my shop.
Once I got that accuracy, I clamped the fence down to ensure it wouldn’t move, and attached several more screws through the base.
Stop block and fence T-track
As I mentioned earlier, I really wanted to have a t-track on the fence that I could use a stop block on. For the track itself, I used a Powertec track that I purchased from Amazon. In a similar way to the tracks in the base of the sled, I’ve found these tracks to be extremely useful at a fraction of the price of the Rockler one. This one even come with hold down clamps, so it was the perfect package for everything I needed to finish my sled. After cutting the track to size, it was easy to install through the predrilled holes into the top of my fence.
The stop block was constructed out of two scraps of plywood with a bolt and nob, super simple!
Most people use their brains, with a bit of preventative safety, to put blocks at the back of the crosscut sled to ensure that your fingers don’t accidentally wander over the area of the sled that the sawblade will protrude through. Since, I was going to put a block there anyways, I decided to try to attach dust collection in this area as well.
I built a simple three-sided box with glue and brad nails, and used a hole saw to cut a hole the size of my dust collection hose.
I attached it to the base with predrilled and countersunk screws through the base.
It’s definitely not as effective as having the dust collection over top of the blade, but I do find that it keeps the sled significantly cleaner than using it without!
And then, to be extra sure that I didn’t let my errant thumbs wander in the direction of that box, I wrote a big ol’ NOPE on the top.
And with that, I was finished!
I love this sled. Since building it a few months ago, I’ve used it on nearly every project that I’ve built. It’s heavy, but I love how accurate it is, as well as its capability to cut larger panels. It’s definitely my most used table saw accessory! In the future, I’ll likely build a smaller version as well and I’m certainly keen to build a mitre sled accessory in the future so that I can kill two birds with one stone (my gliding mitre saw will be a bit peeved to be left out, but it needs to calm down anyways)
Hope you’ve enjoyed this build! Do you have a crosscut sled? How has it changed the way you use your table saw? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments!
Other than my crosscut sled, this straight edge/ table saw taper jig is the accessory that I use the most with my table saw. I love how simple it was to build, and how many versatile applications it has proved to have in my shop.
What does a taper jig do?
A tapering jig does just what the name implies. Whilst running a board through a table saw using only the fence, it is impossible to cut more wood from one end of the board and less from the other. The taper jig allows the user to cut a varying amount of wood (typically on two sides with most furniture) with the use of a movable fence attached to a sled.
There is a tonne of plans and examples of these types of jigs on the internet – from super-advanced with all the bells and whistles, tracks, clamps, and angles – to very simple hinged designs.
When I set out to make my table saw taper jig, what I was really in need of was a straight edge jig. Since I don’t have a jointer and I use a lot of reclaimed wood for my projects, I needed something that I could use to create a straight edge on one of my boards, so that I could then flip it and run that edge against my table saw fence to create a board with both straight and parallel edges.
So, I knew needed a straight edge jig, but I also knew that I was going to be doing some tapered legs for an upcoming coffee table build. This is why, instead of building a simple straight edge jig AND then later having to create a simple taper jig, I decided to go with a design that could accomplish both tasks.
I’m not sure where this particular design originally came from, as I’ve seen several people build similar designs. The most in-depth video I have found on this type of taper jig is from King’s Fine Woodworking.
If you haven’t seen his videos or checked out his site, I definitely recommend it. He has very informative and well-presented projects and plans.
It’s a simple design consisting of a base, a fence and three slots – one in the fence and two down the sides of the base to allow for a type of swiveling motion with the fence.
My jig varied from King’s design in one key area, and that is that I didn’t use a runner at the base of the sled. Instead, I used my table saw fence as the guide for the jig.
I did this for two reasons:
The first is that, because I wanted to also be using this jig to joint the edges of boards, I didn’t want to have a fixed capacity for the jig. Having the sled use the mitre slot as a guide meant that if I had a particularly wide board to straight joint, I wouldn’t have the room. Using the fence as the guide allows me to simply move the fence back in order to cut wider boards.
The second reason is due to somewhat of a laziness/cost factor. I didn’t want to purchase more metal runners, and I haven’t had the greatest luck with wood runners lasting any amount of time in the Australian weather.
For the base of my jig, I chose a piece of 18mm BBC ply that I had left over from my waterfall bedside table build. I’ve seen other builds from MDF or thinner plywood – but I think the best material is always what you have on hand that will work for a project. 😉 I have definitely been bogged down on occasion with waiting to do a project until I had the ‘perfect’ material. Don’t let perfect be the enemy of good, as they say!
I wanted a good amount of length and width in order to, as I mentioned before, accommodate for various sizes of wood. In the end, the length of my sled is roughly the length of my table saw and the width is 400mm. These are the dimensions that worked best for me, both in terms of the materials that I had on hand and the applications that I wanted to use the sled for. I have seen numerous sleds with a much thinner base in terms of width, but for the purpose of straight edge jointing, I wanted to have a wider base for my boards.
Cutting the slots
After cutting the base of the sled and fence to size, it was time to cut the slots that would allow the fence to move and accommodate for hold-downs.
I decided where I wanted these slots to be based on moving around the fence at various angles.
I’m sure there are specific calculations, but this worked for me and didn’t take too long.
I marked where I wanted my slots and then used a Forstner bit to drill a hole at the start of each slot – only to the depth that I would be routing my slot. I have a fixed based router and I prefer to drill clearance holes as opposed to tilting the bit into the wood – to each their own if you would like to skip that step and opt for tilting instead.
I then used a straight edge piece of plywood as a fence and routed a wide slot with a 20mm mortising bit, just deep enough to allow the head of the bolt to not protrude, allowing for the sled to slide smoothly across the surface of the table saw.
I followed this with a drill bit and put a hole the size of my bolt in the centre of this slot and completely through the wood.
Then, leaving the straight edge guide in place, I changed to a straight bit and routed a channel through the base of the sled.
I then repeated this method to route the slot in the top of the fence for the hold-downs.
If you don’t have a router, you can also cut these slots with a jigsaw!
And that was it! The build was complete! Talk about easy.
If you’re interested, I used these hold down clamps from Powertec. They are relatively cheap and work great!
Using the jig
To use the jig, I simply place the sled on my table saw top just
touching the blade, then lock down the fence.
I tested on a scrap piece of 75 by 35 treated pine. Not an ideal leg piece, but again it’s what I had! I marked the shoulder of the leg where the taper would begin and then marked at the base of the leg how far I wanted the taper to extend.
I then lined up my marks, the shoulder at the top, and the taper at the bottom of the jig, set the fence, and clamped everything in place.
After the first pass, I flipped the piece and unclamped the bottom of the fence in order to move it in to accommodate the newly acquired taper. Normally, a two-sided taper is done on two adjacent sides. This approach would be even easier as the fence wouldn’t need to be moved at all after the first cut. Simply rotate your leg ninety degrees so that the cut face is up, and then run your jig back through the saw. Since my test piece wasn’t a square piece, I simply tested putting tapers on two parallel sides. 🙂
Easy done, two-sided taper.
For straight edges, the jig is super simple and effective. I simply place whatever wonky edged board I have on top of the jig and clamp it so that a continuous edge is hanging over the side of my sled. I then run this through the saw, remove the board from the jig and place my freshly cut edge against the saw’s fence to create a straight, parallel-sided board.
The best jig in my shop?
Well, look, my crosscut sled is probably my most used jig, but this is definitely one of my favourite jigs, and I use it all the time to straight joint boards either before a glue-up, or to clean up rough, reclaimed lumber for a project. I’m definitely glad that I spent the extra time to build a jig that could do both tapers and straight edges as it’s saved me loads of time and space in my small workshop!
Do you have a favourite design for a taper jig? Let me know in the comments!
I recently built two modern bedside tables to surprise my partner when she returned from a trip overseas. I wanted them to feature sharp corners with a waterfall grain and found a great plan/idea from pneumaticaddict over at buildsomething.com using plywood. Instead of laminating two pieces together, like she did, I decided to go with a thinner version using a single sheet, both for ease, cost, and prefered design.
Tools/Products I Used
1 full sheet of 18mm plywood (try to find a sheet that has a thick face veneer, and I didn’t and lived to regret it – more on that below)
Circular saw with straight edge guide/track or table saw
Pocket hole jig
Cutting the ply to manageable sizes
I purchased a full sheet of ply (2440 x 1220) from a timber yard and needed to cut that large piece down into manageable sizes.
I was lucky to have my friend, Kenny, here for the weekend – which made moving the sheet around a lot easier.
Using my circular saw, I cut a piece slightly larger than my finished dimensions. I found while cutting with my circular saw, I got a massive amount of tear out. This is when I realized that I had purchased a plywood with a very thin face veneer. For the rest of my cuts, I covered the cut line with tape, which helped to minimize some of the tear out, but didn’t get rid of it entirely. After cutting a slice roughly 405 x 1350, I cleaned up the edges to their final dimension on the table saw.
Waterfall grain refers to the grain of the wood continuing over the edge, which gives it an awesome wrap-around look. To accomplish this, instead of just cutting the top and side pieces and then giving them individual 45 degree bevels, you cut a wedge from the underside of your long panel, with the aim of removing as little material as possible from the face of the board.
Because I was making two nightstands, I experimented with two different methods to do these cuts.
The first was with my circular saw and track. I set the saw at a 45 degree bevel angle and lined up my track with the cut line.
After this first bevel was finished, I flipped the board over, lined up my track and cut the bevel in the opposite direction.
You should end up with a nice wedge out of the back of your board (I made sure to save this wedge – as it will be useful later!). I continued by cutting the next two bevels for the other side of the top and the right side of the table.
When finished, if you flip the boards and line them up, there should be very little interruption to the grains.
For my second nightstand, I decided to try my table saw. It was essentially the same steps, but instead of having to line up the circular saw track, I simply was able to visually line up the bevels on the blade and run the board through next to the fence.
Both methods worked fine, but I think the table saw was easier and less time-consuming.
Cutting the shelf and back support
Now that I had the top cut out, I could take the interior dimensions and measure for the width of the shelf and cut it to size. The depth will be the same as the sides and top, but the width will be measured to the inside of the bevel on the top piece
I also cut the back support/drawer cover at this point and put pocket holes in both this and the shelf for attaching later.
Always a good idea to give your pieces a cursory sanding before attaching them together. This allows you to get to all the sides without having to deal with annoying, tight corners, etc.
I’m about to do something controversial here. I’ve seen many people join beveled edges with splines, biscuits or pocket holes, but I opted not to use any hardware and to trust the glue, along with the back structural panel and shelf to hold this baby together.
I’ll let you know in a few months if that was a good idea, but it’s been three weeks and I have been knocking the hell out of the drawers (because I am generally an absentminded and rough person) and have observed no movement in them.
Before gluing, I taped up the seams to minimize glue mess and took the wedges that I had saved from the waterfall cuts to use as clamping cauls.
I put tape down on both the surface of the nightstand and the caul and then used super glue to bond the two together, once the superglue is dry, I can then use a clamp on the cauls to bring the beveled corners together.
I also have these nifty right – angle clamps that were super cheap on Amazon and actually work great for these types of glue-ups!
Since I was avoiding any joinery, I made sure to put a healthy layer of glue on both pieces, then waited a few minutes for it to soak into the end grain before putting even more on. I wanted to make sure that there would be no areas left untouched by the glue.
I then placed the corner clamps on and lightly tightened them to hold everything in place while I situated the clamps on the cauls. Before tightening everything up, I placed the shelf in its position, squared it up, and clamped it in place to ensure that the entire structure would remain square while the glue dried. Once the shelf was in place – I tightened everything down and left it overnight.
Annnddd unfortunately, I got distracted around this time of the day with a couple of beers and forgot to snap a pic with all the clamps on…. Typical Raff
Attaching Shelf and Back Support
The next day I was able to take the clamps off and easily attach the back support and shelf. I had been a bit nervous that when I screwed the support, as well as the shelf in, that I would see some movement in the bevelled corners – but I have been (so far) right about the strength of the glue, as there was no movement in the joined edges at all.
Filling and Sanding
If there is one thing I would change about this build, it’s the plywood that I chose to build it with. The face veneer on the plywood is so thin that it chips very easily and takes very little sanding to break through.
Luckily – there is such a thing as wood filler.
I gave both nightstands a good once over with the filler in all the cracks and chips. It isn’t perfect, but it does look much better after it drying and getting a good sanding.
After finishing with the filler and giving everything a nice sand to 220 grit, wiped the surfaces down and chose a nice satin water-based varnish to finish it with.
While water-based varnish isn’t supposed to amber as oil-based finishes do, the ply itself does tend to yellow over time. And, the water-based varnish isn’t known for making the grain pop at all – so I have found that adding a slight tint to the varnish with acrylic paints a good way to lighten any yellowing and really make things look great. I simply placed a few drops of red and blue acrylic paint into the varnish and gave it a good stir.
I love the clean, white appearance of the varnish on the plywood when finished – the tint really does mellow out any yellowing!
I put two coats on each nightstand, sanding to 360g between coats.
Drawers and Rails
While the varnish was drying, I was able to start on the drawers. I carefully measured the inside dimensions of both nightstands and chose a relatively shallow drawer of 75mm depth.
After cutting the pieces to size, I cut grooves for the drawer bottom in each piece on the table saw. My drawer bottom was going to be 6mm MDF (something I conveniently had lying around, or I may have chosen plywood), so I only needed two passes on my 3mm kerf blade to have a perfect slot.
With everything cut, I was able to assemble the drawers with glue and brad nails, attaching three sides before sliding in the drawer and attaching the fourth.
For the drawer front, I used a white spray paint and gave it several coats, with the last coat being a finishing coat of clear spray.
I then finished the drawers themselves with the same varnish as the nightstands.
Now all that was left was to install the drawers! I installed the slides on the drawers and nightstands, careful to keep everything both horizontally and vertically in line.
To attach the face of the drawer, I used plastic spacers to align it with about a 3mm gap at the top and 2mm gaps at the sides. I then clamped the drawer in place, predrilled, and countersunk screws from the back of the drawer into the face.
I’m still up in the air about whether I want to build a handle for them. I like the clean white look of the drawer face, but perhaps it could look even better with a handle to tie the drawer into the rest of the stand.
Let me know your thoughts! Handle or no? Circle or rectangle? Wood or metal?
The days of having to spend exorbitant amounts of money to hire a professional to install your new flooring are over. These days you can give yourself a beautiful brand-new floor in a day with the proper tools and knowledge at your disposal. I’m going to give you the knowledge today by walking you through the steps of how to install wood laminate flooring, what tools you need, and some tips and tricks along the way. Settle in, because, after this, you are going to have the confidence to get out there and do it, and then YOU are going to give yourself a huge pat on the back while sitting on your gorgeous new flooring with a well-deserved cold bevy in hand. Because you are a DIY star!
But, first, story time!
Before I begin, I’ve got a little story for you about the guy I first learned how to lay floors from, and a bit of the wisdom he passed on to me regarding DIY. So, if you want to skip ahead to the how-to, by all means, we’re all busy people, but I would be remiss if I shared the steps to install wood laminate flooring without also telling you all about Stole.
Several years ago, while I was living in Vancouver in a tiny basement walk-out on 13th and Cambie, I heard several loud noises coming from the upstairs apartment and outside. Naturally, being the nosey early 20 something year old I was, I went outside to investigate and found my landlord, along with an elderly, Eastern European man, unloading a truck full of wood laminate packs.
The Eastern European man was named Stole, and he was going to be completely gutting and renovating the upstairs apartment. Now, Stole was 76 years old, and I am not intending to be rude when I say that he also looked 78 years old. The upstairs apartment was accessed by a set of narrow stairs, essentially three floors up. I wondered how he was going to get along with doing everything himself, but figured if my landlord had hired him, he would be fine.
At this time, I was already dipping my foot into the DIY bug and had recently built a cabinet unit, along with several other pieces of furniture, specifically fitted to my tiny, basement apartment. Avu, my landlord, had seen these pieces and was aware that I loved crafting things. Several hours after hearing the noise outside, I got a knock on the door.
Avu, my landlord was there to ask if I might lend Stole a hand if he needed it during the renovations. Avu had known Stole for several years and had hired him for all of the repairs and renovations on Avu’s properties, but, he knew that Stole was slowing down, and this project might be a bit too big for him to manage himself. I was, of course, game to get my hand on any tools and learn a thing or two.
And that is the story of how I first got to work with Stole.
At first, I was a bit nervous, I had been on several worksites before and, being a young, 5 foot 2 female, often suffered the brunt of jokes (at the best), a complete distrust for my capability to do the job at hand, or downright abuse (at the worst.) I didn’t know how an elderly gentleman would react to being helped by a young woman, in what has historically been a man’s field. But, I was wrong to worry, in fact, after my first day working with Stole, he told Avu that he needed to pay me more.
While working with Stole, ripping up floors, painting, grouting, cutting trim, and laying new floors, I got to hear his stories of how he ended up working as a handy man. He told me, in his slow, heavily accented English how he had immigrated to Canada in his mid-twenties sometime during the 1960s with his wife. He related how he didn’t know anything about the trades, and spoke very little English, but started off accepting small jobs from people here and there – fixing a doorknob, painting railings, etc. If he was asked to do anything he didn’t know how to do, he told me he would always accept the job, and then go to the library and research until he knew how to complete it. What a guy!
After the third day working with Stole, he brought me three books on carpentry, electric wiring, and plastering. He told me that these were books he purchased early on and read several times. Turns out, Stole taught himself everything he knows and recognised the same drive to learn in me. I still fondly remember at the end of the day, when Avu would drop by to see the progress on the apartment, and Stole would excitedly walk around the apartment, proudly showing off the things “Raiff (this is how he pronounced my name) did today.”
It is amazing what having someone who believes in your potential can do for you.
Stole ended up being one of the seminal influences in my life in regard to DIY, renovations, and general outlook on life, and I still regard the several weeks that I got to work with him as one of the most enjoyable work experiences of my life. And my favourite piece of his advice?
Please read this in the best Slavic accent you can:
“Ifv you don know how to do sumpsink – go to tha library ahnd find a boook to learn how to do it.”
Of course, I mostly use the internet now. 😉
So without further ado, here is everything Stole taught me on how to install wood laminate flooring!
Why wood laminate flooring?
Laminate has come a long way in the last several years. No longer the tacky, peeling, cheap-looking stuff that was plastered on kitchen floors, you can now find quality “snap and lock” laminate flooring that looks incredibly realistic and beautiful.
Here are some great reasons to choose laminate flooring:
It’s relatively cheap – in comparison to other flooring options, high-end laminate regularly comes in cheaper than higher-end carpet, and well below natural wood flooring. Furthermore, having the option to install it yourself, can save quite a lot as well!
It looks good! Laminate has come a long way in the last several years. It is no longer the tacky, peeling, cheap-looking stuff that was formerly plastered on kitchen floors, you can now find quality “snap and lock” laminate flooring that looks incredibly realistic and beautiful.
It’s hypoallergenic, easier to clean and isn’t prone to stains or mold
Quick and easy to install – no need for professionals, and the job won’t take you too long either!
It can last a long time – a high-quality laminate flooring can last between 15-25 years. Furthermore, if you manage to damage one piece, it is possible to replace the single piece without having to replace the entire floor.
Some quick tips before you begin
Once you have purchased your laminate flooring packs, place them in the room where they will be installed and allow at least 48 hours for them to acclimate before installing. This helps to avoid a surplus of movement after you have installed them. All laminate will expand or contract but allowing this time before installation decreases drastic movement.
As you lay the flooring, take panels from various boxes to vary the colour and allow for a more randomised, natural look.
Instead of trying to awkwardly cut your laminate panels to fit around the jamb of a door, cut the door jam to fit overtop of your panels. To do this, place a piece of your underlay down on the floor with a piece of your laminate over top. Take a flush-cut saw or jam saw and simply cut through the jam and remove the piece. Your laminate will now slide beneath the jam and create a more finished, professional look than had you tried to cut the panel itself to fit.
Drop and Lock vs Angle Angle
There are two main types of floating laminate floors: the drop and lock and the angle angle. The difference between the two is the way the joints connect – and depending on which type you have, the installation will be different. I will touch on the different ways to install the two types when I get to how to attach the rows together further on in this article. The important things is that you know which type you have, which should be listed in the product documentation or on the box.
What tools do you need?
Circular, table, or jigsaw (or handsaw if you truly want to work)
If you don’t have these, there is a good package on amazon with a pullbar, tapping block, rubber mallet and a whole slew of spacers here :
Prepare the room
In terms of setup, you’re in luck if you have anything other than carpet as your current flooring. That’s because laminate can be placed over any substrate except for carpet.
If you have carpet, you’re gonna need to rip the ol’ sucker out – but do it with glee, because if you are replacing the carpet it’s probably high time it got chucked, amiright? And imagine how much easier it’s going to be to keep your new floors clean!
Clean and prepare the subfloor
Your floors need to be free of all the dirt and debris before you place the floor – laminate doesn’t do well with irregular surfaces so give it a good clean, and if you have any serious dips or irregularities, fill them with a leveling agent before continuing.
If you have trim, remove it before laying the wood laminate down. Use duct tape or some type of soft covering over your pull bar to avoid damaging your wall as you remove the trim.
If you are adamant that you don’t want to go through the hassle of removing it, you can also simply lay the laminate down and attach a quarter round trim to the existing trim after – it’s the arguably easier, but more expensive option.
Plan your layout and measure your room
There is a bit to think about when deciding the orientation of your panels. Generally speaking, the panels, if possible, should run parallel with the long wall in the room, or the direction of the light source/focal point when entering the room. This creates a long, uninterrupted look which makes the overall end result more pleasant to the eye.
If possible, it’s also best to have the panels running in the direction of the main doorway in the room. If all of these factors aren’t possible; however, just go with the panels running parallel to the long side of the room.
Once you’ve decided on the orientation of the panels, measure the width of the room from wall to wall, accounting for a 10mm gap on both sides (we’ll touch on this gap later, but it’s best to check the installation instructions for your specific laminate to determine what size gap is necessary for expansion. 10mm is generally enough, but some products suggest more.)
When you have the width of the room + the gap, divide this number by the width of your laminate panels. This will give you what the width of your last row of panels will be.
Ex – 600cm room width / 17.5cm width of panel = 34.29 rows
Therefore: our last row will be .29 of a panel or 5.08 cm.
If you find the last row of your floor will be less than around 6cm, I would add the width of the last row that you got in the above calculations to the width of your panel and then divide it by 2.
(17.5 + 5.08) / 2 = 11.3cm
This will give you the width you should cut both your first and last rows to, which will create a more uniform look and allow you to avoid trying to lay a tiny sliver of flooring as your last row.
Put down the underlay
Underlay is essential for laminate flooring that doesn’t come with attached padding. It provides an even surface for your “floating” floor to sit on, gives support for the tongue and groove lock system, and helps with moisture control and reducing noise.
For concrete subfloor
If you are installing over concrete you will need to lay down a vapor layer as well as an underlay, some underlays come with a vapor barrier, and if so you only need the one product.
For padded laminate
If the laminate you are installing comes with padding – the underlay is unnecessary and will actually hinder the proper laying of your floor. However, extra care needs to go into preparing the surface that the laminate will lay on if you aren’t using underlay, as any irregularities can potentially cause the floor to not float properly and buckle at the seams.
Laminate floors with padding that are being installed over concrete will still need a vapor barrier – but make sure that you are installing just the thin vapor barrier and not an underlay with a vapor barrier included.
To put down the underlay, unroll it and run it in the same direction that the panels will run. Allow a bit of excess to run up the wall and use one of your laminate panels to press the underlay into the corners. Use a utility knife to cut off the excess against the wall. When your first row of underlay is down, immediately secure it by starting to lay your panels. As you lay your panels and begin to reach the end of your first row of underlay, unroll your second row. Make sure not to overlap the two layers as any unevenness can cause the laminate panels to buckle. You can join the two pieces with duct tape or another thin layer of tape.
Installing the first row
If your calculations during the planning of your layout require you to rip your first row to a certain width, you should do so now. When ripping the panels to length, cut so that the tongue side of the panel is the waste on each piece. Make sure you are cutting the same side on each piece! The tongue side, unlike in regular woodworking, is actually the side with the shorter extrusion.
For your very first panel, you should also cut the tongue off the short side of the panel that will jut against the wall.
Place your first panel with the cut side towards the wall and begin to assemble your first row. To attach the second panel at the ends, hold the panel at an upwards angle and insert the tongue into the groove of the first panel. Once the joint is snug, press the panel down to secure it in place. Continue building this row until you reach the last panel, ensuring there are no gaps in your joints.
You have your first row of panels put together, minus the end piece. Now you need to place your spacers. Because all laminate expands, you need to leave a gap along all the edges to account for movement – if you don’t do this, your floor will buckle and the joints won’t sit properly!
Some packs of laminate flooring come with spacers, but if they don’t, check to see the manufacturer’s recommended expansion gap and use this size of spacer. Most laminate flooring that I have installed calls for at least a 10mm gap. The spacers can be strips of wood, plastic, store bought spacers or anything that fits the measurement.
At this point, take your spacers and place them at the starting end (the short side) and along the length of the wall, press your first row into place and measure the distance from the end of the row to the wall including the spacer. Cut your last piece to this dimension – but again make sure you are cutting the right end off! (can you tell that I made this mistake a few times? I am clumsy Raff, after all)
Your first row is now finished!
Offset your joints
If your offcut from the end of the first piece is longer than 25 cm, you can use this piece to start your next row. If not, cut a piece longer than 25cm to use as the beginning of your second row – ensuring that you cut off at least more than 25cm!
The length of this piece is important as you don’t want the joints in your rows to line up, and you want a large enough overlap. Part of the stability in floating floors is provided by the offset of the joints. Without it, your floors won’t have the same amount of strength to withstand buckling.
It also just creates a more natural look once the floor is completed – so don’t allow your joints to line up!
Start your second row
Slide the tongue of the second-row panel into the groove of the first row’s plank at an upwards angle, mimic how you attached the pieces end to end on the first row. Ensure there is no gap in the seam and press down to lock.
The second piece can be a bit more finnicky, and this where the installation differs between drop and lock vs angle to angle laminates.
For angle to angle, first attach the short side of the second panel to short side of the first panel using the same angle method as you used in the first row. Get the corner of the second piece as close as possible to the first row, and before placing the panel down, line up the long side seems. After placing the panel down, you’ll have to lift the panel slightly to close the gaps along the seam in the long side panels, tapping with your palm as you go if necessary.
For drop and lock, instead of attaching the short side first, you slide the long side of the second panel into the groove of the first row – then position the short side over top of the groove in the first panel of the second row and simply lock it into place. I think drop and lock is an easier installation, but it isn’t as common as angle angle.
Use a tapping block
If the seam still has a gap, some laminate panels require a tapping block.
Sometimes manufacturers will include a tapping block with the laminate panels – if they do, take advantage of it, as they will often be profiled to fit the grooves of the panels to minimize damage! In fact, if you don’t want to make a tapping block yourself, I would recommend purchasing one from a laminate floor supplier or Amazon – they aren’t expensive.
If you really have the DIY bug though, you can make a tapping block yourself by taking a scrap block of wood and creating a rabbet along the side that is slightly larger than the groove on the laminate panels. Align it along the long side of the panel over top of the groove so that you aren’t tapping on the groove itself.
To use the tapping block, place it next to the panel and gently tap it with a mallet until the seams close. You can also use this method on the short ends of the panels. Take care not to damage the grooves of the panels as you tap, gentle tapping is all that you need!
After tapping, go back to check that your spacers haven’t shifted and your gap is still sufficient
Continue this process, row by row, until you reach your last row, making sure to check seams as you go to make sure nothing has shifted out of place. It’s difficult to fix a seam three rows in if you progress without fixing it as you go!
Install the last row
If you did your calculations right, you should be able to cut your panels to the same width as your first row. Measure the width including the spacers to make sure, and then cut the groove side off of these panels.
Place your spacers and use the same methods as before to attach your last row panels to the previous rows, using a pull bar in the gap instead of the tapping block to pull the seams together.
The process of laying the floor is finished! You can now reattach your trim using finishing nails or, if you didn’t remove the trim, install round molding to the trim to cover the gap.
Make sure you are attaching the trim to the wall as opposed to the floor itself – otherwise all your hard work to account for expansion will have been for nothing!
Lastly, attach a piece of floor transition trim in the doorway, and you are good to go!
You’ve done it! Have a lie down on your brand new floor, crack a beer, and pride yourself in a job well done with your own two hands!
I love a good bevy after work, and with a recent hand surgery coming up, I knew that twisting the tops off wasn’t going to be easy for a period of time. With that foresight in mind, I set about planning my perfect DIY magnetic bottle opener.
There were a few things I wanted from my bottle opener:
1. Magnets: Partly because I love magnets and partly because I dont like to go looking for the bottle cap after I was a bit too enthusiastic during the opening
2. Good, in-hand feel: I wanted smooth edges, soft corners and a perfect fit in my little hand.
3. Beautiful wood grain and contrasting metal: metal and wood are right next to cheese and pretzels in my favourite combos list.
As most projects go, with me being the clumsy crafter, I encountered a few hiccups along the way to my perfect bevy popper, but, in the end, it definitely deserves its place of honor in my bar.
Choosing the stock and drawing the template
The first step was choosing an appropriate piece of stock for the body of the bottle opener.
I didn’t want just any wood for this special project, I wanted beautiful, relatively hardwearing – and most important scrap (so I didn’t have to go buy more) wood.
I had some leftover meranti from my magnetic shelf build and decided it would hold up well to the abuse it might have to endure. I cut the piece to rough size (200mm by 60mm) and then got about sketching up a template that I would use for eventually shaping the piece.
You can really choose whatever shape you want for this project – from a simple, spindle-shaped handle to a more complex shaped handle with several different rounded edges.
Having sketched out a design I thought I would like, I cut it out and traced the outline to the piece of stock.
Drilling the holes
The most difficult part of this build – especially if you don’t have a drill press – is drilling out the recesses that will act as the leverage for removing the cap from the bottle. You don’t want them too far apart or there won’t be enough leverage, and too much overlap will mean that you won’t be able to catch the edge of the cap and the back of the bottle opener at the same time.
If you look at a generic bottle opener you can get a relatively good idea of the spacing that you’ll need.
I used a 35mm Forstner bit for the first recess. Measuring 19mm from the edge of my template, I marked a centre point for my bit and clamped the board down before drilling. I used the depth stop on my drill to ensure that I didn’t go too far through and eventually ended up with a recess about 11mm deep.
The next hole to drill was for the coin that would act as the lip of the bottle opener. I wanted the coin to sit flush with the body of the bottle opener and overhang the previous recess I had drilled by a few mm in order to create the lip. I had a lot of coins to choose from, but not very many drill bits to match.
I eventually settled on a 1000 Rupiah coin which came the closest in size to my 25mm Forstner bit.
I was slow and methodical in this step – a bit of drilling, check the coin, drill a bit more – to make sure that I didn’t over-do it and set my coin in too deep. I did allow for a bit more depth than the coin to take into account the sanding I would be doing towards the end of the project.
The last hole that I needed to drill in the body would be for the embedded magnet I intended to use to catch the bottle cap after opening.
I had 10mm wide magnets that I had also used for my magnetic key shelves. Ordering these in bulk always means that when I have a project that might benefit from a cheeky magnet or two, I have some spares on hand.
I grabbed a 10mm drill bit and put a hole deep enough to hold the magnet and the wood filler that I intended to cover it with.
Cutting and shaping
With the initial drilling done, I was ready to move on to the fun stuff!
I roughly cut out the body of the opener along the template line with a jigsaw, giving myself a bit of leeway since none of the recesses were quite centred (A product of the very dull forstner bits and my shaky hands). This extra leeway meant that I could centre up the recesses during shaping.
I then set about shaping with my carving knives. I sketched a few lines on the handle to show where I wanted to take material from and set about rounding and shaping. This step is purely aesthetics and you can obviously shape it however you want!
I found the sanding barrels of my Ozito rotary tool were a great option for final shaping!
Drilling the mounting hole for the coin
To drill the hole for the coin, I took my 25mm forstner bit and drilled a recess in scrap piece of wood. I then drilled a small hole through the centre of the recess. This setup meant that, in theory, I could place the coin into the recess, tape it, flip the board over and drill directly through the centre of the coin. Because my coin didn’t fit the 25mm recess perfectly, I had to eyeball it before I taped it in. It didn’t work exactly as I had hoped, but I think better than had I tried to do it by hand.
I placed the coin into a clamp and used a countersink bit to take off enough metal so that the screw head would sit relatively flush with the coin.
Mounting the cap catcher
At this point, nearly everything was done, except for attaching the magnet. To do this, I placed a small drop of superglue into the hole and then pressed the magnet in, tapping it a bit with the head of a screwdriver and my mallet to ensure that it sat flat. Then I filled the hole with a wood filler that matched the grain of the wood. Had I not had this filler lying around, I would have just used glue and sawdust, or really any coloured wood filler – I think a contrasting colour might look nice as well.
Because the hole for the coin was slightly larger than I needed, I attached the coin and placed wood filler around the edges to make it look like it really wanted to be there.
I set it out in the nice, hot Australian sun to dry and…..
Came back out an hour later to see that some terrible creature had ripped my poor bottle opener limb from limb.
It only took a quick look around to find the culprit….
Since Taco had apparently assumed that I had made her a wonderful new chew toy, it was back to the drawing board.
I followed the same steps, more or less for my second version until I got a bit rushed/somehow got distracted/had a complete space-cadet moment in which I moved the drill back for some reason before drilling the coin recess, probably because I wanted more work.
As a result, I drilled a very nice, unusable recess which didn’t overlap with the previous hole at all (+1 for clumsy Raff).
Luckily, my stock was thick enough that I could stand to lose a bit. So, I grabbed my orbital sander, sanded off that recess, and re-drilled to the depth of my coin, ensuring that I was definitely in the right spot this time.
I did the majority of the shaping for this one with my Ozito Rotary tool. The longer I have it the more uses I find for it, and I just love it!
Once all the drilling, cutting, and filling were done with this version, I made sure I placed it in a spot that wouldn’t be so tempting for Taco.
Once the filler was dry, I sanded the excess off with a low grit, working my way up to a final grit of 360. As I said, I wanted a smooth hand feel.
After cleaning away the dust, I used a can of thinned walnut stain and varnish that I wiped on and left to dry.
Once dry, I gave it a bit of a buff with the 360 again and then put a second coat of varnish on.
At that point, I eagerly awaited the moment when it was fully cured and I could truly test it out.
A while ago I was given a book called TheArt and Craft of Wood by Silas J. Kyler and David Hildreth. It’s a gorgeous book with stunning visuals of step by step project builds, it makes for a great coffee table book, but, for me, I immediately wanted to recreate everything in the book – talk about some great ideas for fun DIY woodworking projects!
One of the projects in the book was a beautiful, simplistic design for key storage – a wooden magnetic key shelf.
I was immediately hooked, as it was something useful, easy, and needed in my home!
The shelf features 4 countersunk magnets along the bottom that, being flush with the wood, are practically invisible to the eye unless peering from the bottom. What really appealed to me though was the use of magnets to cover the mounting hardware. I’ve always loved the look of metal and wood, and this is sleek!
Sourcing the Materials:
While the book focuses on harvesting, milling and preparing raw wood for various projects (There is some awesome info in there!) – I used lumber store hardwood, as I just didn’t have access to raw wood at the time I wanted to do the project. Getting the square dressed hardwood from the lumberyard meant that this project was even easier.
I chose a length of Meranti hardwood that measured 19mm thick and 140mm wide. A 3 metre piece put me out about $30 AUD.
For the first shelves I built, I sourced rare earth magnets from a local shop. After building those first two shelves for myself though, I realized they were perfect for gifts for family and friends as well – which meant that I didn’t want to be purchasing individual magnets when I could be paying cheaper prices to purchase them in bulk.
I was able to find loads of magnets on Amazon with similar quality to the ones that I purchased locally!
For the 20mm X 1mm magnets that would cover the mounting hardware, I found a 20 pack online (available from Amazon here – this was enough for me to build ten shelves – pretty good value if you ask me.
And for the 10mm x 2mm magnets that would hold the bottom of the shelf I found a pack that had 120 magnets which, admittedly, was a bit much – but since then I’ve found a plethora of uses outside of the shelves themselves for the little guys and I’ve actually ended up ordering a few more! (You can find them on Amazon here if you are interested!)
These magnets are very strong in terms of fastening and holding power, but they lack strength within themselves (especially the 1mm mounting hardware magnets). This means if you drop them, or are rough with them, they are liable to crack or break. (This is another good reason to order them in bulk.) Always slide the magnets apart if they are in a stack, as opposed to trying to pull them apart – it’s way harder to pull them and you only need one time where the magnet slips and pinches a soft piece of skin to learn your lesson. 😉
Making the Cuts
In order to avoid doing several rip cuts, the first step was to rip cut the length of lumber to the size of the shelves. I wanted the horizontal piece to be wider than the vertical so I made a rip cut that left me with a roughly 60mm top piece and a 75mm bottom piece (taking into account the waste from the kerf of the blade). I then took them over to my miter saw, set up a stop block, and cut each piece down to 415mm in length. This meant I could get 7 shelves from a 3 metre piece!
Drilling the Magnets
After the cuts were finished, I set about measuring the spacing for the locations of the magnets on the underside of the shelf. Let me tell you something about math. I went to a tiny little private Bible school from the age of 7 to the age of 16. Let me tell you how much math I learned there…. Umm…. Well… I think it’s generous to say I ended up graduating at a grade 8 level in the maths. Whenever someone asks me what I would change about my childhood this always comes up. I wish I had been taught math and science (among other things). It’s been a slog to try to learn it since.
I digress. My childhood isn’t the point of the article – the shelf build is. What I was trying to get at was the fact that it took me a while (and a tutorial from my partner) on how to calculate for the spacing of points along a given line. I know it all sounds a bit sad that I couldn’t even do this simple stuff, but look I CAN calculate it now. Never too late to learn, as they say!
Once the math was out of the way, I did a few test drills on scrap and then placed masking tape on my drill bit to mark the depth I needed to drill for the magnets. Four, evenly spaced holes resulted and I was pretty happy. Word of advice here – be careful when dry test fitting your magnets as they are hell to get out of your perfectly drilled holes if you push them all the way in. I will confess to having one magnet that isn’t glued for this very reason. It’s still hanging in there, so I suppose it will stay that way.
Once the holes were drilled, I gave both pieces a good sanding. This is mentioned in the book – but it’s also just good practice to pre-sand your pieces before tacking them together. It’s going to save you a ton of time later in the process, and it makes it a lot easier to get into all the corners that are harder to access once the piece is finished. For the pre-fastening sanding, I went over everything with a 120grit sandpaper.
After sanding, I used a drop of super glue at the bottom of each hole and pressed the magnets in. Make sure you clean up any seepage right away, as it’s not nice to try to do so later.
Next up was the larger, shallow countersinks for the magnets that would cover the mounting hardware. I don’t have a drill press, which would have made every step of the process easier, but it is definitely doable with a hand-held drill if you are slow and methodical. First, I laid out where I wanted the screws to be positioned on the top piece and pre-drilled a hole for them. The top magnets were only 2mm thick and I used a Forstner bit, centered on the pre-drilled hole, to slowly mill out the material until I was satisfied that they would sit flush to the surface.
Putting it all Together
With the sanding done and the magnets in place, I was ready to join the two halves of the shelf! The only thing I changed from the original plans was removing the use of dowels for the joining. I chose screws and glue because they were on hand and nothing is as good as what you have on hand. However, you really could skip the screws altogether and simply glue and clamp the pieces, it would be plenty strong enough.
Final Sand, Finish, and Mounting
Once the glue was dry, I was ready for the final sand and finishing – which happens to be my favourite part of any build.
I love the way a good finish brings a project to life!
While I liked the colour of the wood as it was, I felt it could look even
better with a bit of a darker tinge to make the grain pop. I chose a walnut stain I had on hand that I mixed with clear varnish. The result was a nice red-ish brown with a satin finish. I ended up doing two coats but likely could have gotten away with one if I hadn’t thinned out the varnish as much.
Mounting was easy. I simply marked through my predrilled holes onto the wall, drilled and put in a wall anchor, popped one screw in, leveled, then popped the second in. I think the magnets covering the mounting screws are my favourite part of this build! It’s such a clever way to make the shelf look uniquely finished while serving a functional purpose.
What I love most about this piece is the simplicity. There is something about the clean lines that draw the eye to the grain of the wood, which of course then draws your eye to the stark, yet appealing interruption of the shiny, metal magnets that hide the mounting hardware.
I’m excited to do more projects from TheArt and Craft of Wood!